I accepted an invitation to attend the meeting thinking it would provide the inspiration I'm looking for to create my next chocolate concoction. I was beyond inspired and happy to learn all I can about any ingredient, especially chocolate! To sit in a room listening to the ideas and issues surrounding chocolate production from grower to chocolatier was very interesting. I took a lot away from the day and would like to highlight a few things that stuck with me.
The chocolate industry is just beginning in Hawaii and this group of cacao growers and chocolate makers have big plans for the long term future of Hawaiian chocolate. I was amazed to hear about the costs of growing chocolate and the risk a farmer takes by planting this fragile crop and the long time frame they're looking at before #1) knowing if their crop creates chocolate that tastes any good and #2) making any profit off the harvest of trees planted up to 4 years prior! Keeping this long term commitment of the farmer in mind imagine the fear of a chocolate pest infestation in Hawaii. This topic came up a few times and educating the public is imperative to the health of the chocolate industry, and part of the HCCA's mission. Read more in their newsletter: PLEASE DON'T SMUGGLE PODS. Further, if you go on vacation to a place that grows cacao, visit a cacao farm, or come in contact with cacao in another chocolate growing country please be careful not to smuggle cacao pests back to Hawaii. Burn your clothes and shoes! Hawaii grows only a tiny percent of the worlds chocolate and the future of Hawaiian chocolate is bright; it could all be ended by one tiny pest stowaway.
Another topic that was of interest to me was the diversity of chocolate in Hawaii. I personally believe terroir absolutely has an affect on the flavor of chocolate as well as variety and of course fermenting and drying (the #1 time in the life of the cacao the the flavor can be made or ruined). Previously it was believed that there were only 3 varieties of cacao: criollo (an inbred pure cacao from ancient times believed to be the best by some, others believe its comparable to a purebred dog and carries health issues that make it weak), forestero (another ancient variety grown mostly in Africa known for its high yield), and triniterio (a hybrid of the two, or any shade of grey). I learned yesterday that there are many more than just the three and that new species are being discovered in the depths of the jungles in central and south America more and more. Hawaii has many of these varieties including some ancient species and many micro climates among the islands to grow very diverse and unique chocolates. Therefore there should be appellation control of cacao in Hawaii...I loved this discussion and wholeheartedly agree. This got me thinking about an appellation specific dish, chocolate grown on the Hamakua coast sweetened with vanilla and honey from the same coast, maybe pair it with lilikoi, coconut, macadamia nuts, Suriname cherries or any other crop that also grows nearby. Plate it on Koa wood...now I'm getting carried away.
Although I got to taste some chocolates from all over the world at the end of the day I was left with a huge craving! Luckily I am going to be testing recipes over the next week for my new spring menu chocolate dessert at work...looking forward to that! I'm also working on a presentation for the Big Island Chocolate Festival next month, until then.....
Very interesting read. I had no idea there were three varieties of cacao or the amount of maturation before you know if your chocolate is any good. Sounds like wine making a bit. Keep up the writing.
ReplyDeleteCheers!
Mike